SEGMENT FIVE
VISTA RIDGE TRAILHEAD -- CLOUD CAP

COUNTERCLOCKWISE: CLOUD CAP TRAILHEAD TO VISTA RIDGE TRAILHEAD

The Timberline Trail skirts the campground and is clearly signed by a noticeboard. Remember to sign in at the Wilderness Permit Box. Take the trail to the right, signed to Elk Cove. The trail almost immediately starts to go downhill into the canyon carved by the Eliot Branch of the Middle Fork of the Hood River. The Forest Service puts a bridge over the river every summer but if you are there before the bridge, take great care crossing, especially on the snow bridges, because the river is very turbulent and usually very full. The next three miles of the trail are relatively easy because the trail meanders along through meadows and stands of trees, mostly following the contours of the mountain, and doesn’t gain or lose much elevation. There are fairly steep drop-offs on the right in some places, though, so take care not to miss your footing. The next notable landmark is the canyon of the Coe Branch of the Middle Fork of the Hood River. The trail eases down to the river by way of long loops at a very gentle grade. This river does not have a bridge and, again, special care is needed early in the summer. Later, there is usually no problem.

After crossing the Coe Branch, the trail climbs out of the canyon and into Elk Cove, another 1¼ miles. Elk Cove is a great place to picnic, rest, look at flowers or gaze at the awesome folds of the Coe Glacier. The mountain is so close at this point that is seems that a mere hop, skip, and jump would get you to the top. Wrong! Continue on through Elk Cove, cross the exquisite stream that runs through the west side of the cove, and follow the trail up and over the ridge that forms the west side of the cove. The display of flowers on this stretch is equal to any other segment on the Timberline Trail, which is saying a lot! Once out of Elk Cove, the trail continues to follow more or less the same contour and passes through lovely meadows and stands of trees. For a well worthwhile side trip to Dollar Lake (see below), take an unmarked trail on the left after the climb out from Elk Cove where the mountain comes into view on the left. The next trail intersection is Pinnacle Ridge, on the right, in a meadow.

The Vista Ridge Trail is 0.6 miles further, on the far side of the lush Wy’East Basin. Turn right down Vista Ridge Trail for the last 2.7 miles to the trailhead. The trail follows the ridge all the way and descends at a gentle grade. Take the time to stop at some of the fantastic viewpoints looking back up to the mountain.There is only one more intersection, ½ mile from the trailhead: turn left to get to the trailhead; straight ahead goes to Red Hills Road, 1½ miles.

The short ( 0.2 mile) hike up to Dollar Lake, and to the view points beyond, is well worth the effort because it provides superb views down into Elk Cove and up to the Coe Glacier and Barrett Spur. Dollar Lake is a very shallow mountain tarn, not suitable for swimming or fishing, but perfect for a picnic, a quiet nap, or overnight camping.

Cloud Cap Inn was built by Chinese laborers and opened in August 1889 at a cost of over $50,000. The hoped-for guests did not materialize, and the Inn had to be closed at the end of the 1890 season, after only two years in operation. Perhaps the length of the journey was in part responsible. Visitors would travel from Portland to Hood River by train and be met by an open coach and four. The first relay was 10 miles to the Joe Divers Ranch on the Little Luckamas Creek. The second relay took them to the Elk Creek; the third up the long dusty road to Cloud Cap—5½ to 6 hours from the railway. Cloud Cap is now operated by the Crag Rats, a mountain rescue group.

“A party of gentlemen and ladies from Salem and vicinity has just returned from a trip to Mt Hood, and Mr John Garrison, of the party, called upon us yesterday morning. He reports that on last Monday, Aug 26, 1867, several gentlemen and two ladies made the ascent to the summit, starting from the snowline at seven a.m. and reaching the summit at ten minutes past one p.m. They remained one hour on the summit, left several mementoes of their visit and descended again to the camp of the night before, arriving at five minutes past five o’clock.

“The names of the ladies are Miss Fanny S. Case and Miss Mary Robinson both of Salem. Mr Garrison says they exhibited remarkable courage and endurance, making the trip without difficulty and visiting all the notable points to which the gentlemen ventured. This achievement is something for them to boast of, as they are absolutely the first white women who ever stood on the summit of Mt Hood. The late ascent by ladies of Mt Adams dwindles into insignificance compared with it. Henceforth Miss Case and Miss Robinson are entitled to the first distinction as female adventurers.”

      Daily Oregonian Aug 31, 1867

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